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First Things First

Ive always fancied building a little Y class to accompany the future Severn class that I will build eventually and if nothing else, has given me something to do and gain some vac-form experience. Ive been warned about this kit and the fact that vac-forms are a nightmare to use and get right, however I'll give it a go.

Starting The Build

This is how the kit arrived

The first task was to slice off the excess plastic from the main half tubes. 17mm was measured down from the top and bottom halfs and masking tape ran the length. A sharp knife was then used to gently score down the edge of the masking tape. Several passes were then done. The plastic could then simply bent and it would snap along the score line.

Now Adrian who owns speedline models makes point of the fact that the half tubes will more than likely not line up. However in my usual incompetence, I seem to have taken his sentence to the extreme. I have a feeling lots of filler is going to be required on this build...

I feel more fettling may be required!

After much sanding, profanitive words and brute force, the half shells were joined together using masking tape and copious amouts of plastic weld.

Few gaps are visible, however with some filler these should no longer be visible.

And the underside...

One thing has became apparent and that is the recess on the underside which houses the floor and hull is not in line with the actual dead centre of the boat! Speedline obviously didn't ensure correct line up. Its about 3mm to the left and this is not user error, its moulded directly into the bottom of the shell. Will this cause an issue - probably not, however the point remains that in my opinion, its very sloppy production/mould making.

The tubes were then filled with my plasticard filler and left to harden overnight.

Here is a very brief overview of the laser cut parts supplied in the kit. These same high quality and accurate parts can be found in most of the speedline range of models. The 1/16th Severn infact is mostly such parts.

The parts have a backing on which should be carefully removed, especially on the tinner pieces.

Here's the moulding for the hull.

The excess material was trimmed off and the main part of the hull was used as a basic template to create the floor section. Both of these parts will then sit in the recessed area on the bottom of the tubes.

The filler was sanded flush and now no join lines can be seen. The floor was fettled into shape and plastic weld used to secure it to the tubes.

The hull was then sanded into shape and fixed on top of the floor into the recess on the tubes.

Because I get bored very easily of parts not fitting out of the box, I then turned my attention to parts which should - the laser cut parts. The first job to tackle was the mounting system for the outboard.

The pictures are not very cleary, however the three hanger brackets were plastic welded together. The eight kingpost segments were then plastic welded. The two parts where then plastic welded together and given a sand to make the edges flush.

Another error, or atleast I assume an error on speedlines part was that the holes or grove shown on the kingpost is 2.5mm. However the closest size to this in the rods supplied was 2mm. Now 0.5mm is not a huge gap, however this was enough for the rod to be very unstable. I did happen to have some 2.5mm rod in my supplies. The second issue here is that on the laser cut parts, the eight kingpost segments are clearly a triangle with a 2.5mm hole near the tip, however on the drawing, it is a grove. Now am I supposed to make my hole into a grove, or is it supposed to be a hole, or is it just even to make the drawing more clear? I just feel the production of this kit has had an attitude of "it'll do".

Continuing work on the transom, here are the two halfs which make up the inner and outer face, along with the transom flaps.

The strip on the inner side and motor plate on the outer side were plastic welded in place.

The two rings were then welded into place.

Now this is where the parts start not to fit. The lower edge of the transom faces overlapped the actual hull underneath the boat but there seems no other way for them to fit. Im not the only person who has had this issue. I simply orientated the transome how I will be welding it to the tubes and scribed a line along the base of the hull. This was then scored and snapped off. The left face is the inner face and has been cut to size, the right is the outer and remains untouched to show the difference.

One thing I must remember and that is to insert the main 'wooden' floor into the boat before the transom goes one as otherwise it will simply not fit! The top perspex parts shown are the main floor boards which are normally made of wood. The lower is the sponge floor fitted over the top to protect crew from injury.

Back to the hull. The grab line support strips were then cut out of the parent sheet. A further production error is the deformed strip at the bottom of the picture.

The strips were then plastic welded onto the tops of the tubes.



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©Dan Walker